The plan was as follows:
Day 1. Cap de Creus - Llança.................................................26.0km
Day 6. Llança - Espolla.........................................................27.0km
Day 2. La Jonquera - Macanet de Cabrenys..........................21.0km
Day 3. Macanet de Cabrenys - Albanya.................................20.0km
Day 4. Albanya - Sant Aniol - Sadernes................................ 23.0km
Day 5. Sadernes - Oix/Beget.................................................13.5kmThe above distances are all quite approximate. I had to come off the GR 11 at one stage and look for accomodation in Sadernes, which is approximately 7km off the GR 11 trail.
The august heat was one of the main obstacles to overcome. This meant "early to bed, early to rise", of course. In the end it was just Bronagh and myself on the first phase of this adventure. These experiences are for sharing like so many other things in life but that was not possible this time round. Nevertheless, I was sharing it with my dog. After all " a dog is a man`s best friend " and my dear Bronagh would follow me to the end of the world.........or at least that is what I thought!
At the end of May 2012 I visited Cap de Creus for the first time. What a really beautiful place! Isn't it a real pleasure to still find places that are protected from falling into the hands of the Evil. I had heard so much about this part of the Costa Brava and believe me, I wasn't disappointed!
For those of you who don't already know, Cap de Creus is the most eastern point on the Iberian peninsula and is also the most eastern extreme of the Pyrenees. It is here that this spectacular mountain range bends down to embrace the Mediterranean sea. This rocky landscape covers an area of 90 square kilometres between Roses and Port de la Selva, the highest point barely reaching 600 metres. It was declared a natural park in 1998 and has managed to stay this way up to the present day.
Wednesday, August 15th 2012.
Bronagh and I got the train From Barcelona Sants up to Llançà, where I had a reservation at Hostal Llançà. Trains are quite frequent but I would recommend getting one that only stops at 8 or 9 stations between Barcelona Sants and Llançà instead of one that stops at every station. (see Renfe). Logically, it really makes the journey that little bit shorter and of course, these trains are not as crowded.Little did I know then, but I had chosen the hottest week of the year to do the walk. This I would discover over the coming days as well as another few surprises, which would eventually cause a couple of setbacks and therefore change my whole schedule. Ah well, it's all part of the adventure, isn't it?
We eventually found our hostal, which was right next door to the petrol station. I must add here that I stayed in Llançà simply because it was impossible to find any kind of accomodation in either Cadaqués or Port de la Selva. Neither of the hostals I stayed at in Llança were in any way comfortable, nor would I recommend them to anybody. If there is anybody out there who is interested in walking around Cap de Creus or its surroundings or even starting the GR 11 from Cap de Creus, they should try to find accomodation in Cadaqués or Port de la Selva. Both Cadaqués and Port de la Selva (see photos below) are worth a visit at any time of the year.
Friday, Aug 17th 2012.
I am sure you have already noticed from the above mentioned schedule that I missed 2 stages of the walk. Today I expected to arrive in Espolla sometime late this afternoon but early this morning I could see that my dog, Bronagh wasn`t fit to do another long day's walk. In fact, she was hardly able to walk at all due to the strenous walk the previous day. She was as stiff as a board and found it difficult to walk 100 mts. I decided there and then to return to Barcelona on the next train out of Llançà. I love my dog too much to make her do something that I knew she was incapable of.After organising for somebody to care for her, I would head north again to resume my Pyrenee Crossing. Bronagh was suffering from sheer exhaustion (as you can see in photo on our way back to Barcelona by train). In fact, I had to carry her home practically all the way from Barcelona Sants Train Station. I will never put her through anything like that again!
Saturday, August 18th 2012.
I'm on the train again on my way to Figueras but this time I'm completely alone. Shall I enjoy it as much now that my loyal little companion is not with me? No matter what, I am determined to go through with it and at least try to make it to Beget or Setcases.Bronagh was being well looked after in Barcelona and only had to walk around the block over the next few days. I felt happy about that but missed her company terribly.
I got the coach from Figueras to La Jonquera where I had a room reserved at Hotel Nacional. I would spend the night here and resume my adventure early Sunday morning. My experience over the next few days would be among the most rewarding and most enriching of a lifetime......and this was only just the beginning!
Friday, 21st June 2013
I left Barcelona Sants and headed for Llança on Friday afternoon with the intention of doing the 2 stages I missed due to my dog's mishap last summer.......Llança - Espolla - La Jonquera. The weather was quite unstable and it rained on and off during the train journey north. It was such a pleasant feeling looking at the countryside through rain spattered windows. This also meant that the temperature would be that little bit cooler the following morning and at least make the walk that little bit more comfortable at the start of the day. Excitement was getting the better of me as we approached Llança.
I arrived in Llança around 19.50 hrs and made my way straight to the hostal where I had already reserved a room. It's quite near the train station so I was there in less than 10 minutes. I was interested in having a little time to go and find where exactly the GR 11 track left from and achieved this much faster than I had expected. I decided to go to the Tourist Office but unfortunately it was closed. Nevertheless, while I was there I discovered the GR 11 red and white markings and also a map of the GR 11 trail. The trail in the direction of Espolla was just across the main road from the Tourist office. I could now happily go back to the hostal for a substantial dinner and a good night's sleep. Tomorrow would be another day!
I should mention here that the first stage from Llançà to Espolla went extremely well and I reached my destination without any setbacks whatsoever (see The Walk). However, the second of these 2 stages from Espolla to La Jonquera via Castell de Requesens, did not go at all according to planned and I ended up crossing the border into France. Where and when I went wrong I still do not know! What I do know is that at some time I will have to go back to Espolla and walk this stage again. Ah well, It's all part of the adventure, isn't it?
Between the 16th and 20th of August 2013 I continued my adventure westwards and walked from Beget (where I finished last summer) and finished in Planoles this time round. I had originally planned to finish in Puigcerdá but decided to finish in Planoles because my rucksack was cutting into my back and it was starting to bleed. I felt happy about the three stages from Beget to Planoles but also frustrated for not being able to finish in Puigcerdá as I had planned. I'll just have to return to Planoles and finish this 4th stage to Puigcerdá in the not too distant future.
Day 7. Beget - Setcases....................................................................20.8km
Day 8. Setcases - Vall de Nuria.......................................................22.0km
Day 9. Vall de Nuria - Planoles.......................................................18.0km
All the above distances are quite approximate.
